top of page

Italy Travel Recap - Lake Garda, Tuscany, Capri, and Positano

  • Writer: Sally Rychlak
    Sally Rychlak
  • Jul 13
  • 5 min read

Updated: Jul 21

by Sally Rychlak


It's well known that, beyond the wine and food, one of the best parts about Italy is how different every region feels. You can drive a few hours and suddenly you're in a completely different landscape, eating completely different food, and wondering why you didn't book another three nights.


This trip took us to Lake Garda, Tuscany, Capri, and Positano. I would happily go back to all four.


Lake Garda


We started in Sirmione and stayed at Villa Cortine. We were there for a wedding, so our schedule mostly revolved around the wedding festivities, but we still had plenty of time to wander through Sirmione while white knuckling our way through the jet lag.


Before the trip, I had never heard of Lake Garda, but it was described to me as a laid-back Lake Como (as if I knew my way around Lake Como). It felt like somewhere people actually live, not just somewhere people visit. It was beautiful, relaxed, and never felt overrun with tourists.


We booked a boat tour that ended up getting cut short because of lightning. So naturally, we spent the morning dodging the rain with gelato at 11 a.m. (which felt perfectly reasonable considering our bodies still thought it was 4 a.m.).


If anything, I wish we'd planned another day or two here. Lake Garda ended up being one of those places that deserved more than the quick stop we gave it.


  • sally rychlak
    on lake garda
  • sally rychlak in sirmione - villa cortine
    sirmione - villa cortine
  • sally rychlak at lake garda
    lake garda
  • sally rychlak exploring sirmione italy
    sirmione

Tuscany


The drive from Sirmione to Tuscany took a little over three hours, but we broke it up with a stop in Modena. If you aren't familiar, Modena is known for two things: balsamic vinegar and fast cars. Naturally, we made time for both, with a balsamic tasting followed by a visit to the Ferrari Museum.


  • sally rychlak at the ferrari museum
    ferrari museum
  • sally rychlak in modena
    modena smells like balsamic (positive)
  • sally rychlak eating lunch in modena
    lunch in modena

The next official stop was Radda in Chianti, where we stayed at Borgo Vescine. This ended up being an unexpectedly favorite part of the trip.


We spent our days doing exactly what you're supposed to do in Tuscany. Wine tastings, a cooking class, truffle hunting, long dinners, laying by the pool, and one communal dinner at the hotel where we ended up making friends.


One afternoon we visited Castello di Brolio for a private tasting. The views were incredible, but honestly my favorite part was wandering down the hill afterward and finding a tiny aperitivo spot that probably would've never shown up on a "Top 10 Things to Do" list. Two glasses of rose and a bowl of peanuts for five euro.


One thing worth knowing before you go: Tuscany is not where I'd order seafood. This is beef country. Potatoes, steak, pasta, red wine.


I'd go back here in a heartbeat.


  • sally rychlak at borgo vescine
    borgo vescine
  • sally rychlak at borgo vescine
    borgo vescine
  • sally rychlak at borgo vescine
    borgo vescine
  • sally rychlak at borgo vescine
    borgo vescine
  • sally rychlak at Castello di Brolio
    Castello di Brolio
  • sally rychlak at borgo vescine
    borgo vescine
  • sally rychlak at borgo vescine
    borgo vescine
  • sally rychlak at borgo vescine
    borgo vescine
  • sally rychlak in tuscany
    tuscany
  • sally rychlak doing a cooking class at borgo vescine
    cooking class at borgo vescine
  • sally rychlak in tuscany
    sally rychlak in tuscany
  • sally rychlak at borgo vescine
    borgo vescine
  • sally rychlak at borgo vescine
    borgo vescine


Capri


Capri was probably the biggest surprise of the trip.


I knew to expect luxury shopping, expensive hotels, and beach clubs, which all exist, but I wasn't expecting how much we would be able to take advantage of the hiking. We hiked Monte Solaro and spent quite a bit of time walking around Anacapri, and I kept wondering why more people weren't doing the same thing.


sally rychlak hiking
hiking near Le Grotelle

If we go back, I'd probably stay in Anacapri instead. It's quieter, the sunsets are better, and it felt more like somewhere I'd actually want to spend several days.


We stayed at Hotel Mamela and really liked it.


Capri Restaurants


Caesar Augustus was probably our favorite dinner of the trip. The food was great, but it's hard to compete with that view.


  • sally rychlak eating dinner at caesar augustus
    caesar augustus
  • sally rychlak eating dinner
    caesar augustus
  • sally rychlak at caesar augustus having apertivo
    caesar augustus apertivo
  • sally rychlak toasting at caesar augustus
    caesar augustus
  • sally rychlak watching the sunset at caesar augustus
    sunset at caesar augustus
  • sally rychlak watching the sunset at caesar augustus
    sunset at caesar augustus
  • sally rychlak at caesar augustus

Le Grotelle was another favorite. Family owned, built into the hillside, and good enough that we went back.


sally rychlak eating lunch in capri
le grotelle

Il Riccio is worth it for sunset, although you're definitely paying for the location.


La Fontelina is a great lunch after a boat day, but I felt underdressed. Learn from my mistake and throw on something besides a swimsuit.


Villa Margherita would be a great lunch or early dinner spot if you're mostly there for the view.


Capri Things to do


A boat day feels mandatory, which is exactly what we did.


We also loved Anema e Core for a night out, drinks at Quisisana, sunset aperitivos at Caesar Augustus, and hiking Monte Solaro.


sally rychlak travel blog
Quisiana

One random tip: the Funicular (cable car) down to the ferry is incredibly easy. Don't waste money on a taxi if you're just trying to catch your boat.


  • sally rychlak eating watermelon
    da adolfo
  • sally rychlak on a goat hike
    goat hike
  • sally rychlak at the top of a hike in capri
    monte solaro hike
  • sally rychlak overlooking capri water
  • sally rychlak eating caprese ravioli
    caprese ravioli
  • sally rychlak eating seafood lunch at la fontelina
    la fontelina
  • sally rychlak on water of capri
  • sally rychlak on the capri monte solaro hike
    monte solaro hike
  • sally rychlak on a hike in capri
  • sally rychlak watching the anacapri sunset
    anacapri sunset
  • sally rychlak drinking champagne in anacapri
    anacapri
  • sally rychlak at the pool of hotel sirenuse
    hotel sirenuse

Positano


We stayed at Buca di Bacco, and the hotel itself was great. The staff couldn't have been nicer.


That said, next time I'd probably stay somewhere a little quieter. Positano is beautiful, but it's busy from the moment you wake up until you go to bed.


Also, there are stairs, many stairs. You'll eventually stop reacting to them because you have no other choice. And it makes the pasta taste better when you worked for it.


Boat day was once again one of the best days of the trip. We also spent plenty of time shopping for ceramics, leather bags, and custom sandals that somehow felt like necessities in the moment.


sally rychlak overlooking positano

Positano Restaurants


Rada Beach Bistrot was a great lunch.


Da Adolfo absolutely lived up to the hype. You can rent a chair and spend the afternoon at the beach afterward, or have the boat take you back to Positano.


Da Vincenzo was one of my favorite dinners. Family owned and worth getting a reservation.


La Tagliata is worth the drive for the views alone. The family-style dinner is one to remember, and they serve you an insane amount of food.


Don't Worry Bar is a fun stop for a drink.


One thing I wish we'd done differently was getting a reservation at La Sponda well in advance. Learn from my mistake.


Also, Positano isn't really a sunset town. I don't know why I assumed it would be, but it isn't. If sunset is important to you, Capri is the better bet.


  • sally rychlak
  • sally rychlak in italy
  • sally rychlak watching the capri sunset
  • sally rychlak smiling with positano in the background

Final Thoughts


I think my favorite thing about Italy is that nobody seems to be in much of a hurry. Dinner takes three hours and no one is trying to hand you the check. People order another bottle of wine because they're enjoying the conversation, not because they're trying to keep the table.


Some of my favorite memories weren't the "big" moments. They were driving through Tuscany with the windows down, finding random little aperitivo bars, talking to people we'd just met over dinner, and realizing halfway through the trip that every place we visited deserved at least another day.


Italy has a charm that makes you promise to visit annually. Now, as I document the travel recap nearly a year later, I find myself questioning why I'm not writing to you from Italy today. Hmm...


sally rychlak tuscany sunset

Comments


Sally Rychlak

© 2035 by Sally Rychlak. Powered and secured by Wix

bottom of page